The excitement of finally visiting Egypt after a lifetime of anticipation is palpable as I settle into my seat on a plane soaring above the Nile, the iconic river winding its way through the vast Sahara Desert. This is a journey to a land where ancient history is preserved like nowhere else on Earth—a place where mighty pharaohs once ruled, and 3,000-year-old temples and tombs stand remarkably intact. The prospect of experiencing these wonders up close is nothing short of thrilling. I’m traveling aboard TUI River Cruises’ new adult-only ship, the Al Horeya, which marks the company’s first venture into Nile cruises. This 141-passenger vessel offers week-long, all-inclusive, round-trip voyages from Luxor, complete with flights and transfers included in the package, priced at an excellent value of £1,799 per person. The cruise strikes the perfect balance between exploration and ease, offering the option to venture out independently or join a wide range of guided tours, many of which are free or reasonably priced. For those nervous about navigating Africa alone, this cruise simplifies the process, making Egypt accessible and enjoyable.
The Al Horeya, while not a new ship—it was built in 2005 for the Egyptian Jaz hotel chain—has undergone a significant refurbishment, and my cabin is modern, spacious, and equipped with a French balcony. The ship itself is far more luxurious than the modest vessels depicted in ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics. It boasts a swimming pool and hot tubs on the top deck, a first for TUI’s river fleet, as well as indoor and outdoor bars and restaurants. The Al Horeya feels fit for royalty, and I can’t help but imagine that Cleopatra herself would approve of its grandeur. The ship’s main restaurant serves hearty meals, including tagines, roasts, and rice, which are perfect for fueling a day of exploration. With resident Egyptologists on board to guide tours, the educational aspect of the trip is just as impressive as the luxurious accommodations.
One of the highlights of the journey is the chance to explore Luxor, home to the world’s most impressive cluster of antiquities. The Valley of the Kings is a must-visit, where ancient Egyptians buried their pharaohs in elaborately decorated underground chambers filled with treasures. While the treasures are long gone, the intricate hieroglyphics and craftsmanship that adorn the walls are nothing short of breathtaking. Standing in the tomb of Rameses VI, I marvel at the vivid colors and detailed stories depicted on the walls, though interpreting them is another matter altogether. The experience is both humbling and awe-inspiring, and I find myself neck-craning in wonder at every new sight. The tomb of Tutankhamun is equally fascinating, with his mummified body on full display—a stark reminder of the civilization’s obsession with the afterlife.
As the cruise progresses, I am continuously wowed by each new experience. A visit to the temples of Hatshepsut leaves me speechless, with its dramatic terraces carved into the limestone cliffs. It’s a masterpiece of ancient architecture that seems impossible to match. Yet, the journey is full of surprises, from riding a traditional Felucca (an Egyptian sailing boat) to exploring the Karnak Temple, with its 134 towering pillars that date back 1,250 years before Christ. Learning that some of these pillars were even used as a filming location for James Bond’s The Spy Who Loved Me adds a touch of modern-day intrigue. The ship’s Egyptologists provide fascinating insights, such as the story of obelisks gifted to other countries, including Cleopatra’s Needle in London—a fact I hadn’t known before.
The cruise is as much a haven for culture lovers as it is for sun-seekers. After 48 hours in Luxor, the ship sets sail for Aswan, 150 miles south. The journey offers ample time to relax by the pool or hot tub, soak up the sun, or even learn how to write your name in hieroglyphics from the Egyptologists. The Nile’s lush, fertile banks are a stark contrast to the vast deserts that dominate 96.5% of Egypt. Watching locals wave from the riverbanks—and even witnessing a boat trader attach his vessel to the ship to sell his wares—is a lively reminder of the vibrant life along the Nile. The evenings are just as enjoyable, with fun entertainment ranging from mummification competitions (using toilet paper, no less) to performances by whirling dervishes. The included drinks, while not award-winning, are refreshing and perfect for the heat, with the Shahrazade rosé proving to be a dry, drinkable choice.
Aswan quickly becomes my favorite destination on the cruise, blending ancient history with modern marvels. The Aswan Dam, an engineering feat that began construction in 1960 to control the Nile’s floods, is a highlight. A visit to a Nubian island offers a glimpse into a distinct culture with its own language and traditions. Ending the day with a sundowner at the Old Cataract Hotel, where Agatha Christie wrote Death on the Nile and Princess Diana once stayed, feels like the perfect way to unwind. The final excursion—a hot air balloon ride over Luxor’s temples and tombs—is nothing short of magical. Drifting at 1,500 feet, the aerial views are a fitting finale to the trip. This Nile cruise is a journey that seamlessly blends adventure, history, and relaxation. It may have taken years for me to make it to Egypt, but every moment of this enriching experience was worth the wait. For more from Jo Kessel, visit her YouTube channel. TUI River Cruises offers this seven-night, all-inclusive Legends of the Nile cruise, starting at £1,799 per person, with stops in Edfu, Kom Ombo, and Aswan. The package includes drinks, tips, two excursions, transfers, and return flights from London Gatwick or Manchester. Visit www.tui.co.uk/river-cruises for more details.
