Summarize and humanize this content to 2000 words in 6 paragraphs in EnglishMore than two decades ago when I came to live in Portugal, a surprising number of people asked: ‘Do you speak Spanish already?’Sardines and fado music were known associations to the well-travelled, but many people still thought of Portugal as a region of Spain. Few had heard of the Alentejo, a region of dolmens and vineyards, olive trees and storks that takes up more than a third of the country. Portugal was often called ‘Europe’s best kept secret’.Fast forward to today and the country is on just about every traveller’s lips, with Lisbon usually featuring in the top ten of favourite city break lists. Pictures of pasteis de nata flood Instagram and enticing, white-washed hotels have opened up and down the country offering a taste of simple, authentic Portuguese life (albeit with all the luxurious mod-cons).What hasn’t changed is people asking where to go, where to stay or what to visit. And having spent 23 years seeking off-the-radar, medieval hilltop villages, trying little-known Douro Valley wines, searching for the best designer hotels in Lisbon and secret spots by the sea in the Algarve – I’ve got more than a few ideas.So here are my favourite places, whether budget or big-ticket, urban or rural; the one thing they have in common is the ability to get you under the skin of Europe’s most westerly nation.Lisbon and the coastHilltop charm… Obidos Obidos, a stonewalled city with a medieval fortress, was a present from King Dinis to Isabel of AragonThis hilltop town of whitewashed houses, enclosed within 14th-century castellated walls, was among the presents that King Dinis gave Isabel of Aragon for their wedding in 1282. Then it was an important port – now it’s forever pretty, with a reputation for its cherry liqueur, Ginja.MY TIP: Another 30 minutes north up the coast is Nazare, an old fishing village backed by steep cliffs. While the fish market bustles with women in traditional dress selling their fare, it is the waves that have made this area famous. Many world records for surfing have been recorded here.BOOK IT: Areias do Seixo is a charming hotel with a surf school and easy access to many nearby historical sites including Obidos (areiasdoseixo.com); has doubles from £216 B&B. Fly to Lisbon from Birmingham with Ryanair from £127 return (ryanair.com).Royal approval… Cascais/Estoril The idyllic beach town of Cascais, located just west of the capital and the former home of James Bond writer Ian FlemingSometimes called the Portuguese Riviera, this coast west of Lisbon has long been synonymous with royalty. From the days when Ian Fleming lived in the Palacio in Estoril – which inspired his first James Bond novel, Casino Royale – to the exiled last King of Italy, Umberto II adopting Cascais as his home, this was considered the place to be. Estoril, described as a ‘glorious Eden’ by Lord Byron, offers a cluster of palaces and castles to explore, while Cascais is a must for the freshest of seafood.MY TIP: Feast on traditional seafood at Mare in Cascais (marejoseavillez.pt).BOOK IT: The stylish Farol Hotel has doubles from £126 B&B (farol.com.pt). Fly to Lisbon from Gatwick or Luton from £159 (easyjet.com); Manchester-Lisbon return from £92 (ryanair.com); Edinburgh-Lisbon returns from £231 (easyjet.com).Historical delights… Lisbon A tram passing in Baixa, Lisbon, with the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Encarnacao in the backgroundBeautiful Lisbon with its bougainvillea-filled cobbled streets, yellow trams and red roofs is a delight. Resolutely Portuguese, it brims with heritage from the warren of narrow streets in ancient Moorish Alfama to the imposing Monastery of Jeronimos in riverside Belem. The latter was built from the riches of Portugal’s Golden Age Of Discovery. Start in the magnificent Praca do Comercio, an arcaded plaza where foreign dignitaries once alighted from their boats to meet the king.MY TIP: More than anything I get asked where to find the best pasteis de nata (traditional custard tarts). My favourites are at Manteigaria, which has nine Lisbon outlets (manteigaria.com).BOOK IT: Palacio Principe Real offers a leafy oasis in the city centre with a large pool and soaring jacaranda tree; has doubles from £409 B&B (palacioprincipereal.com). Fly to Lisbon from Gatwick or Luton from £159 return (easyjet.com); Manchester-Lisbon return from £92 (ryanair.com); Edinburgh-Lisbon returns from £231 (easyjet.com).The NorthDramatic peaks… Peneda-Geres Peneda-Geres, Portugal’s only national park, is home to mountains, waterfalls and wooded valleysPortugal’s only national park stretches from the Spanish border in the north to the Geres mountains, offering a dramatic landscape of windswept peaks, waterfalls and wooded valleys. Here, wild horses gallop through forests of pine and oak, granite ruins of ancient monasteries and old Roman milestones dot the landscape, and honey buzzards and short-toed eagles soar above.MY TIP: Head to the villages of Lindoso or Soajo to see the extraordinary espigueiros (granaries), tomb-like in appearance, which are found in large quantities here. Constructed mainly of granite, they are raised on columns and slatted for ventilation.BOOK IT: An eight-night guided tour including e-bike riding, canyoning and being a shepherd for a day, is from £1,900pp excluding flights, with some nights in the little Casa do Afonso guest house in the well-preserved mountain villages of Brufe (welovesmallhotels.com). Fly to Porto from Bristol, Glasgow, Gatwick, Luton and Manchester from £57pp return (easyjet.com).Tipples and tiles… Porto The Capella das Almas, meaning the Chapel of Souls, is located in the country’s second city of PortoThe country’s second city is young and vibrant, never more so than on the night of June 23 when fireworks illuminate the Douro River and residents celebrate the feast of St John The Baptist, the city’s patron saint. JK Rowling once lived here, drawing her inspiration for Hogwarts from the spectacular staircase at bookshop Lello (livrarialello.pt). Seek out the beautiful blue and white tiles that lighten the city’s granite buildings on churches like Capella das Almas, in the cloisters of the cathedral or lining the walls in Sao Bento railway station.MY TIP: Sign up to a guided tour of one of the Port Lodges, such as Taylor’s, to learn about the history of this fortified wine, and ancient link between the UK and Portugal.BOOK IT: Doubles from £132 B&B at the stylish Rebello (therebello.com). Fly from London to Porto from £245 return(ba.com); or from Stansted, Bristol and Liverpool from £47 return (ryanair.com).By the riverside… Douro Valley The vineyards of the Douro Valley, which is the oldest demarcated and regulated wine region in the world dating back to 1756 The world’s oldest demarcated and regulated wine region, dating from 1756, is also one of the loveliest. Steep vine terraces tumble to the wide, bottle-green Douro River in a landscape where winding roads pass impressive old quintas (manor houses) built on the wealth of port production. Dotted along the river are tiny railway stations adorned with hand-painted blue and white tiles. Then there is the magnificent Douro River itself, where port barrels were once transported downstream to the lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia.MY TIP: Stop for lunch on the river at DOC, reopening next month after a major renovation (docrestaurante.pt).BOOK IT: Doubles from £274 at Six Senses Douro Valley (sixsenses.com). Fly from London to Porto with British Airways from £254 pp return (ba.com); or from Stansted, Bristol and Liverpool from £47 return (ryanair.com).For nature… Serra da Estrela The sheep in Serra da Estrela are an integral part of the region, providing waterproof wool for burel fabric and milk for the acclaimed Serra da Estrela cheeseWool is to the mountains of Serra da Estrela what wine is to the Douro. The shaggy Bordaleira sheep found there sustain the production of the acclaimed Serra da Estrela cheese as well as the important burel fabric for which they give their waterproof wool. The highest mountains in mainland Portugal, these are a nature lover’s dream. Expect to see golden eagles and black kites above you, otters, wild boar, genets and rabbits around you, and bellflowers, sage-leaved rock roses and juniper beneath your feet.MY TIP: Visit the fascinating Burel Factory to see the process from sheep to shelves before indulging in one of their brightly coloured designs in the shop next door (burelfactory.com).BOOK IT: Casa de Sao Lourenco is a cosy boutique hotel with interiors by Portuguese designer Maria Keil overlooking a glacial valley; doubles from £211 B&B (casadesaolourenco). Fly to Porto from London with British Airways from £254 pp return (ba.com); or from Stansted, Bristol and Liverpool from £47 return (ryanair.com).Oysters in… ArrabidaJust 30 minutes south of Lisbon, Arrabida takes its name from the Arabic word for ‘place of prayer’. It’s a peaceful region of undulating vineyards and golden coves that fringe the blue waters, home to a community of bottlenose dolphins. Worth visiting is the pretty little town of Azeitao, famous for its strong sheep’s cheese and muscatel wines.MY TIP: Go to Mercado Livramentos, the main food market in nearby Setubal, and try the exquisitely good local oysters at the Exporsado stand.BOOK IT: Hotel Casa Palmela has doubles from £182 B&B (hotelcasapalmela.pt). Fly to Lisbon from Gatwick or Luton from £159 return (easyjet.com); Manchester-Lisbon return from £92 (ryanair.com); Edinburgh-Lisbon return from £231 (easyjet.com).Enchanting walled city… EvoraRising out of the Alentejan plains is the bewitching walled city of Evora, offering between its Roman, medieval and 17th-century walls a plethora of interesting sights.There’s an impressively well-preserved Roman Temple, a 13th-century cathedral and the famous 17th-century Chapel Of Bones complete with skulls and corpses. Handicrafts flourish here too, from painted furniture to pottery, to clay figures and carved cork, especially on Rua 5 de Outubro.MY TIP: Just 10 kilometres outside Evora is the Fitapreta winery set in a contemporary cork building within the shadow of a beautiful 14th-century palace. Boasting wines which reflect this fusion of past and present, tastings are not to be missed.BOOK IT: Housed in a 15th-century monastery with beautiful cloisters and overlooking the Roman Temple, Pousada Convento, Evora offers doubles from £109 B&B (pousadas.pt). Fly to Lisbon from Gatwick or Luton from £159 return (easyjet.com); Manchester-Lisbon return from £92 (ryanair.com); Edinburgh-Lisbon return from £231 (easyjet.com).Pretty ‘White City’… EstremozI love Estremoz. It has the feel of a friendly local town (with a wonderful weekly market) yet is also full of history. The medieval upper town is set within ramparts and dominated by a 13th-century marble keep, which rises to 89ft. Take time to explore the shops, where you can find objects in the town’s typical red clay such as the figurines, known as bonecos, which date back to the 17th century and have Unesco intangible cultural heritage status. There are charming nativity scenes and figures of typical Alentejano artisans, too.MY TIP: Gadanha Mercearia restaurant, with shelves of enticing food and wine in its entrance, serves excellent local fare (merceariagadanha.pt).BOOK IT: Doubles from £376 B&B at Da Licenca with a two-night minimum stay (dalicenca.pt). Fly to Lisbon from Gatwick or Luton from £159 return (easyjet.com); Manchester-Lisbon returns from £92 (ryanair.com); Edinburgh-Lisbon return from £231 (easyjet.com).Classy coastline… ComportaConsidered ‘The Hamptons of Portugal,’ Comporta is where the iykyk (‘if you know you know’) crowd go. Turquoise waters fringe beaches which stretch into infinity. Green rice fields dot the landscape between reed-lined, thatched cabanas, once the traditional homes of fishermen and rice farmers, now frequented by famous creatives. It’s all about barefoot luxury.MY TIP: A little shop in Comporta sells the most desirable clothes and homeware, books and jewellery curated with impeccable taste (thelifejuice.com).BOOK IT: Doubles from £239 B&B at Quinta da Comporta, with views across the rice fields (quintadacomporta.com). Fly to Lisbon from London Gatwick or Luton with Easyjet for £158.63 pp return. (easyjet.com).Medieval marvel… MarvaoThis beautiful medieval hamlet, perched up high at almost 3,000ft, is reason enough itself to come to Portugal. Its 13th-century walls blend seamlessly into the granite mountains which stand facing Spain, enclosing a collection of little white-washed houses and a 15th-century church, as they sweep round to meet the 13th-century castle dominating the village.MY TIP: Take your time to drive here through the Serra de Sao Mamede mountain range, where you should see Bonelli’s Eagles and dolmens.BOOK IT: Doubles from £105 B&B at the tiny little Pousada Marvao within the village’s walls (pousadamarvao.com). Fly to Lisbon from Gatwick or Luton from £159 return (easyjet.com); Manchester-Lisbon return from £92 (ryanair.com); Edinburgh-Lisbon return from £231 (easyjet.com).The AlgarveDreamy views… Sagres The lighthouse of Cabo Sao Vicente, Sagres, on the southwester tip of EuropeOn the wild, western edge of the Algarve, Sagres was where Prince Henry opened a navigation school in the 15th century. Today you can still see the wind compass used by the ancient mariners. Now popular with surfers, it makes a great base to explore excellent nearby beaches.MY TIP: In the little harbour of Baleeira, just next door to Sagres, you can hop on a Rigid Inflatable Boat to spot dolphins in the wild (marilimitado.com).BOOK IT: Doubles from £99 B&B at the Memmo Baleeira hotel (memmobaleeira.com). Fly from London Stansted to Faro from £85pp (ryanair.com).Tranquil history… Tavira Houses reflected off the quiet waters of the Gilao river in Tavira. The town was one of the most important Moorish settlements.Considered the region’s loveliest town with its endless churches, terracotta-tiled roofs and mansions with filigree balconies, Tavira was one of the Algarve’s most important Moorish settlements.MY TIP: Take the ferry from the town centre to the beautiful island of Ilha de Tavira.BOOK IT: Doubles from £209 B&B at Casas da Quinta de Cima, with great sea views (casasdaquintadecima.com). Fly to Faro from Gatwick from £180 return (ba.com); Edinburgh-Faro return from £168 (ryanair.com); Manchester-Faro return from £106 (easyjet.com).Secret beaches… Lagos The Church of Santo Antonio in Lagos, one of the town’s main attractions that neighbours the Museu de Lagos Lagos today is a hugely popular tourist town, but it’s easy to escape the crowds if you know where to go. First up should be the Church of Santo Antonio, a national monument with ornate, gilded interiors and a neighbouring museum (museu.cm-lagos.pt). Then check out the beaches including Praia do Camilo (with lots of steps down) and pretty Praia Dona Ana.MY TIP: Start your evening at Travia Wines & Food, a great little restaurant specialising in natural wines and traditional dishes.BOOK IT: Doubles from £193 B&B at the stylish Palmares hotel overlooking the bay (palmaresliving.com). Fly to Faro from Gatwick from £180 return (ba.com); Edinburgh-Faro return from £168 (ryanair.com); Manchester-Faro return from £106 (easyjet.com).Michelin stars… Porches Vila Vita beach in the Algarve, just one of the many beautiful beaches in Portugal’s southern regionThe Algarve varies enormously from east to west, not only in water temperature (the nearer the Mediterranean, the warmer it gets) but in character, too.The centre is the most built up which means the most facilities, but inevitably the greatest number of tourists too.Here, you are still on the edge but within easy reach of places such as Silves, once a Moorish stronghold, and many lovely beaches such as Praia de Benagil and Praia da Marinha, with their postcard-pretty limestone caves and rock formations.MY TIP: Visit the family-run Porches Pottery for a wonderful range of attractive homeware, which can be shipped home (porchespottery.com).BOOK IT: Doubles from £255 at Vila Vita Parc Resort, which has a Sisley Spa and a two-Michelin-star restaurant (vilavitaparc.com). Fly to Faro from Gatwick from £180 return (ba.com); Edinburgh-Faro return from £168 (ryanair.com); Manchester-Faro return from £106 (easyjet.com).And give these spots a miss… It’s best to skip some of the built-up areas in the Algarve in the peak summer months. The beaches are too busy, parking is impossible and restaurants overflow.Typically, these are Albufeira – once a charming fishing town now the tourist capital, whose strip is well known for British stag weekends – and Vilamoura, which is raising its game and moving upmarket but is still exceedingly busy in high season. However, Albufeira should be avoided as the town has become a hotbed for British stag dos and restaurants that overflow in the summer monthsOn the way up to the north is Fatima. Famous as the place where the Virgin Mary appeared to three shepherd children in 1917, it is now a huge pilgrimage site dominated by tourist shops.And even further north Aveiro, often called ‘the Venice of portugal’, never fails to disappoint.
Keep Reading
